Personal Anchor System (PAS)

https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_ES/experience-story?cid=qc-lab-personal-anchor-systems-explained&utm_campaign=qclabpersonalanchorsystems&utm_medium=experience&utm_source=instagram

Revisa tu placa Slyde de Kong

http://rroodrigo.blogspot.com.es/2015/10/placas-kong-slyde-retiradas-del-mercado.html?m=1

RESISTENCIA CINTAS EXPRESS FIJAS ( BY ROCANBOLT)

Información para los que les gusta dejar cintas colgadas todo el año… Jose Manuel Martinez, un escalador mexicano, nos ha prestado esta valioso estudio con la rotura de cintas mantenidas en la roca.
Hoy ensayamos tres cintas que habían estado expuestas al clima de la sierra de Juárez por un tiempo considerable (nadie sabe con exactitud pero fue entre 1 y 2 años). Este lugar se encuentra en México y presenta temporadas con temperaturas bastante altas.

Los resultados fueron:
Cinta blanca (izquierda) Carga al momento de ruptura: 2.3KN (236 Kg)

Cinta gris (medio) Carga al momento de ruptura: 5.2KN (536 Kg) (SOLO EL 23% DE SU CAPACIDAD DE CARGA NOMINAL)

Cinta negra (derecha) Carga al momento de ruptura: 7.9KN (812 Kg) (SOLO EL 36% DE SU CAPACIDAD DE CARGA NOMINAL).

Conclusión: si quieres tirar tu dinero deja las cintas colgadas….si quieres apostar tu vida utiliza las cintas que dejaron colgadas.

Muchas gracias a Iris Tarín y Alberto Venzor por ayudarnos con las mediciones y a crear conciencia de lo peligroso que puede ser dejar el equipo de escalada colgado en las paredes.

Rotura de cuerda...

EL "BAILE" DE LAS CINTAS Y LOS MOSQUETONES...

CARABINER AND BOLT INTERACTION [VID]

Carabiner and Bolt Interaction from DMM Climbing on Vimeo.

CORROSIÓN EN ZONAS MARINAS...

Certified vs. Non-Certified maillon

HOW TO BREAK NYLON & DYNEEMA® SLINGS [VID] (by DMM)

How to Break Nylon and Dyneema Slings from DMM Climbing on Vimeo.

Nylon (polyamide) and Dyneema®/Spectra® (polyethylene) are two synthetic raw materials with distinct strengths and weaknesses used in the manufacture of slings and quickdraws. Understanding the properties of these man-made fibres will guide us to best practice at the crag for using such products.

While Dyneema® has a much greater strength-weight ratio (static load) than nylon, its elasticity is far less. At DMM’s test-tower we took a look to see what implications this difference has for a dynamic loading on to a Dyneema® sling and what happens if there is a knot in the sling? You can see the comparative results betweenNylon and Dyneema® slings (all rated at 22 kN) in this video and in the table below.

After watching the video I’m sure you’ll agree that dogging a move on a sport climb while clipped to any sling is a dangerous idea and that having any slack in a belay system is best avoided – you wouldn’t want to fall off a ledge clipped into a slack sling.

Even a 60 cm fall-factor 1 fall on to an open Dyneema® sling can generate enough impact force (16.7 kN) at the anchor to pull a Wallnut 11 wire (12 kN) apart. Tying a knot in a Dyneema® sling weakens it even further leading to sling failure in a fall-factor 1 loading on to a 120 cm sling.

For perspective, most leader falls are between 4 – 7 kNs. Forces above 10kN will start to cause internal injuries – 10kN equates to 1 metric tonne in ‘old money’.

While the impact forces in the tests for the nylon slings are lower than the Dyneema® they were still high enough to snap wires. This isn’t to say Dyneema® is bad and nylon is good. On the contrary, comparing the two materials, Dyneema® has a strength to weight ratio higher than not just nylon but also steel, a significantly higher resistance to cutting and lower water absorbtion (important in winter), making it an ideal material for slings and quickdraws. It is also more resistant to ultra-violet rays and chemical attack than nylon but has a lower melting point. This is an important factor to consider when abseiling – pulling a rope through a Dyneema® sling, say as in poor abseiling practice, will generate enough heat to severely weaken the sling, if not melt through it.

It’s knowing these properties and making an informed choice according to your needs as a climber that is important. Clearly, taking advantage of the shock-absorbing capability of the rope by using it to tie directly into anchors as opposed to using a sling, will reduce the chances of dramatically shock-loading the anchors. If you do use slings then ensuring there is no slack in the system is paramount.

It is also important to bear in mind that the characteristics of slings and quickdraws are also affected by the weave and blending of fibres, purposefully used to achieve particular handling qualities. Dyneema® slings are in fact usually a blend of nylon and Dyneema® fibres.

Mean Results
			Open Slings				Cowstail Rope ‘Slings’
			Dyneema		Nylon		Semi Static	Dynamic
Fall Factor: 1 or 2	Length of Sling	Length of Fall	8mm	11mm	16mm	26mm	11mm	10mm
FF1	120cm	120cm	–	22.4	12.8	–	–	–
FF1+ Overhand knot	120cm	120cm	–	11.1	11.0	–	–	–
FF2	120cm	240cm	–	21.2	17.6	–	–	–
FF2 + Overhand knot	120cm	240cm	–	11.7	14.3	–	–	–
FF1	60cm	60cm	17.8	16.7	11.6	11.8	7.3	5.7
FF1 + Overhand knot	60cm	60cm	–	10.2	–	–	–	–
FF2	60cm	120cm	22.5	25.1	15.4	16.3	10.3	7.4
FF1	30cm	30cm	14.8	16.4	10.6	11.0	–	–
FF2	30cm	60cm	22.6	18.7	14.0	–	–	–
Sling failure

Photo: Nick Bullock grateful for a decent sling runner near the end of the difficulties on the top pitch of The Super-Duper Calabrese E6 6b, Left-Hand Red Wall, Gogarth. © Ray Wood

ERROR FATAL EN UNA REUNIÓN...

Everyday Hero Accident Demonstration from Climbing on Vimeo.

CABOS DE ANCLAJE VS FACTOR 1

Mosquetones "Cortacuerdas"

C LAB: DANGERS OF ROPE WORN CARABINERS

Friday, May 17, 2013

There was an accident a few weeks ago at the Red River Gorge where a climber fell going to the second bolt and the rope was cut completely through by the fixed draw's sharp-edged, rope-end carabiner.

THERE WAS AN ACCIDENT A FEW WEEKS AGO AT THE RED RIVER GORGE WHERE A CLIMBER FELL GOING TO THE SECOND BOLT AND THE ROPE WAS CUT COMPLETELY THROUGH BY THE FIXED DRAW'S SHARP-EDGED, ROPE-END BINER AT THE FIRST BOLT:


IF YOU RECALL THE PREVIOUS TESTING AND COMMENTARY ON THIS SUBJECT
(HTTP://WWW.BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM/EN-US/JOURNAL/CLIMB/QCLAB/QC-LAB-HOW-SKETCHY-IS-A-ROPEWORN-SHARPEDGED-CARABINER#COMMENT-6599) I HAD STATED THAT I'D ONLY SEEN ROPES GETTING "SHEATHED" BY SHARP-EDGED BINERS—USUALLY MID-ROUTE—AND SUBSEQUENTLY LEARNED OF AN ACCIDENT IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC (IN A CLIMBING GYM) WHERE THE ROPE-GROOVED SHARP BINER (ALSO AT THE FIRST BOLT) SEVERED THE ROPE COMPLETELY, RESULTING IN THE CLIMBER HITTING THE GROUND.  LUCKILY IN BOTH CASES, THE CLIMBERS WERE NOT BADLY INJURED.

WHICH BINERS GET BADLY GROOVED AND WHY?

FROM MY EXPERIENCE FALLING ALL OVER ROUTES, ALL OVER THE COUNTY, I'VE NOTICED THREE PRIMARY LOCATIONS WHERE FIXED BINERS BECOME BADLY GROOVED:
1)    FIRST BOLT
BELAYERS TYPICALLY STAND TOO FAR AWAY FROM THE WALL.  THIS RESULTS IN A SHARP ANGLE IN THE ROPE FROM THE BELAYER TO THE FIRST BINER AND THEN UP THE ROUTE.  WHEN LOWERING A CLIMBER, THE ROPE, OFTEN DIRTY AND GRITTY, SLOWLY WEARS A GROOVE IN THE BINER.  BOTH INCIDENTS I'VE HEARD OF WHERE THE ROPE WAS CUT COMPLETELY, IT WAS THE FIRST BOLT THAT WAS THE CULPRIT.
2)    CRUX BOLT
MANY CLIMBERS BEING LOWERED OFF THE SAME BINER (FALLING AT THE CRUX ONTO THE SAME BOLT).  THIS HAS THE SAME EFFECT AS ABOVE.  THE SHARP ANGLE OF THE ROPE WRAPPING AROUND THE BINER AND THE WEIGHT OF THE CLIMBER BEING LOWERED IS WHAT IS ALLOWING THE ROPE TO SLOWLY CUT THROUGH THE BINER.
3)    OUT OF LINE BOLTS
OFTEN IF THE BOLT LINE ISN'T STRAIGHT, AN OUT-OF-LINE BINER CAN END UP BEING GROOVED.  ONCE AGAIN, THIS IS CAUSED BY THE ROPE AND ITS ANGLE RUNNING OVER THE BINER SURFACE.

 

TESTING

WE'D DONE SOME TESTING BEFORE, BUT DECIDED TO DO ONE MORE SUPER QUICK TEST IN OUR DROP TOWER JUST TO SEE WHAT IT WOULD TAKE TO CUT A ROPE ON A SHARP-EDGED BINER IN A HARSH, BUT REALISTIC, LOADING SCENARIO.

SETUP

• Sharp-edged biner (actual biner used in test shown directly above)
• 80 kg mass
• brand new 10.2 mm rope
• One harsh, but realistic, drop
• Static belay

RESULTS

• Rope cut on the FIRST drop (see image below)
• Max load reached - ~7 kN

DISCUSSION

ONCE AGAIN, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?  WHAT DOES 7 KN ACTUALLY MEAN AT THE PIECE OF PROTECTION?  WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU, THE GEAR AND THE ROPE?

WELL, 7 KN FALLS CAN AND DO HAPPEN IN THE FIELD.  THESE CAN OCCUR:

• usually when there is not much rope out (i.e., early on in the climb).  With not enough rope out, there is little rope to help absorb the energy of the fall.
• and with a close-to-static belay (i.e., belayer hauls in rope and even leans back, trying to keep the climber from hitting the deck.).  Loads are decreased with a dynamic belay, but increase with a static belay.

THE CLIMBER USUALLY "FEELS" THESE SORTS OF FALLS.  YOUR KIDNEYS TAKE A BEATING, YOUR HIPS ARE SORE, AND YOUR FEET MAY EVEN HURT FROM SLAMMING INTO THE WALL.  I'VE SEEN MANY A CLIMBER TAKE A HARSH FALL LOW ON THE ROUTE—IT'S USUALLY FOLLOWED BY A DEEP GRUNT AND "LOWER ME". 

THE REALITY IS THESE SORTS OF HARSH FALLS LOW ON A ROUTE WITH A SHARP BINER IN PLAY AND THE ROPE RUNNING OVER ITS SHARP EDGE AT ANGLE (BELAYER STANDING AWAY FROM THE WALL) CAN, AND OBVIOUSLY HAVE, RESULTED IN DAMAGING AND EVEN CUTTING THE ROPE.
 

BOTTOM LINE

NOW I DON'T WANT TO GET INTO SOME ETHICAL DEBATE ON WHETHER ROUTES SHOULD BE LEFT WITH FIXED DRAWS OR NOT.  THE BOTTOM LINE IS YOU CAN DO A FEW THINGS TO REDUCE THE IMPACT ON FIXED GEAR:

• stand close to the wall when belaying, especially when lowering
• use your own first draw on the first bolt of fixed routes
• use long slings to help reduce rope drag
• use steel biners on "high traffic" fixed draws

AND OF COURSE, IT'S IN EVERYONE'S BEST INTEREST TO REPLACE WORN AND TATTERED FIXED GEAR.

BE CAREFUL OUT THERE
KP

Bloque suelto en una vía de Navagallega!!

VIA: EL JARDINERO FIDEL (NAVAGALLEGA)

BLOQUE SUELTO

SCC: STRESS CORROSSION CRACKING (COMUNICADO DE TECH ROCK - FIXE)

http://techrock.es/es/noticias/comunicado-fenomeno-scc

CUIDADIN CON LA CUERDA Y LOS VOLTEOS...

¡CUIDA LOS DESCUELGUES!

 USA TU MATERIAL PARA HACER TOP ROPES,  "ASEDIOS" Y RONDAS  CON LOS COMPAÑER@S 

CUIDADIN CON LOS MOSQUETONES GASTADOS…

Los filos que  se producen por desgaste en los mosquetones gastados, sobre todos los de las cintas fijas, puede llegar a cortar la cuerda en una caída como  ya ha ocurrido en USA, República Checa, o con  resultado mortal en Suiza.

 http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/knowledge/qc-lab-dangers-of-rope-worn-carabiners

DYNEEMA

http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/03/knotting-dyneema%c2%ae-vid/

¡¡¡ CUIDADÍN !!!

QC Lab: Daisy chain dangers from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Cuidadín... (By Santi)

El pasado viernes 26 después de trabajar y antes que llegara la tormentaperfecta esa, Miguel, Isi y yo fuimos a Canalizos a picar un poco. No pocasveces reconocemos lo modesto de nuestras sierras, pero lo que vimos no eramodesto precisamente: un gran alud había barrido toda la zona, según me dijoVíctor el día anterior estuvo lloviendo mucho y quizá eso hizo que desde casi la cuerda del Calvitero se desprendiese una cornisa que paró en la turbera de debajo de las cascadas después de separarse en varios frentes.


Había bloques del tamano de un contenedor, y las zonas superiores de lascascadas estaban irreconocibles y con los anclajes sepultados, el frente inferior tenía 3 metros de alto...

Algo trepamos, pero con sensación deinseguridad toda la tarde-noche. Todavía hay cornisas con líneas de fracturaclaras preparadas para desprenderse (si no lo han hecho ya). Cuidadín...